FAQ
Grinding Equipment
You will need to purchase a new set of plates with double grommet pins. Older machines may require the driver heads to be retro fitted.
First ensure you are connected to the right power source, and that nobody else is connected to the same breaker. If correct, try removing some weights and/or lowering your RPM.
First check your power source, and ensure the machine is receiving power (you may need to have the power checked with a meter to ensure full power on each leg).
If your machine has an emergency stop button, make sure it is not engaged.
Sometimes you may need to pull the machine backwards as you push start to alleviate the head pressure until the heads get a full rotation.
- RS150 – 2500kw/h
- RM250 – 4500kw/h
- RM350 – 6000kw/h
- RL500 – 10000kw/h
- RXL1000 – 25000kw/h
- RS150 – 15A 110v
- RM250 – 15A 220v Single Phase
- RM350 – 20A 220v Single or 3Phase
- RL500 – 40A 220v Single or 30A 3Phase
- RXL1000 – 50A 220v 3Phase
On average, metal bonds should run around 450-650RPM, and polishing pads around 600-800RPM. Always start your machine at the lowest speed and work your way up.
Belts should be tensioned to where you can JUST touch the side of the base with the belt. Please review our videos on belt changes before changing your belt.
While all machines will be capable for all projects, some will be far more efficient.
When deciding on which machine to use, the main considerations will be:
- Power requirements
- Job Size
- Accessibility.
Tooling
No, you can also run standard trapezoid tooling, or any Velcro backed tool.
- Are you using the right bond?
Test > MOHS Hardness pick set scratch test
Solution = match to corresponding metal bond from chart. - Rate of production – is it cutting?
Test > momentarily remove vacuum hose from machine and observe how much dust is being produced (a lot of dust means a lot of grinding, very little dust means very little grinding)
Solution = check for glazing and correct bond using other methods mentioned in this section along with choosing the correct tool or method. - Are you using the correct speed and grinding techniques?
- Diamond tool is wearing down too quickly
Test > measure the segment height with a caliper then grind 200 sq/ft or less and measure again. Any measurable wear indicates bond is too soft
Solution = move up in bond hardness. - Glazing – metal bond tool not cutting
Test > inspect segments, some may have discolored sections (purple/black) where over heating has occurred, and the surface of the segment has become tempered
Solution = dress each segment with a hand grinder and a 60 grit grind stone or wet grind at slow speed on a section of rough or course ground concrete for 15-30 minutes until discoloration is removed and tooling starts cutting again. - Glazing caused by excessive heat even when using the correct bond
* Note – on harder aggregates and concrete (i.e. above 4 MOHS) always cut at lower speeds. The harder the material the more heat is generated while cutting.
Test> Start at the slowest speed and gradually increase if necessary, until the machine “feels” and shows results of good cutting. “Find the sweet spot.” - Correct Bond still cutting slow
Test > usually means it is a highly polymerized floor and/or has been coated with cure and seal
Solution = Misting the floor or potentially wet cutting.
Yes, just ensure all segments are at the same height.
With an impact drill. Be careful not to over torque and strip thread
There is a 3-hole pattern between the Rhino Style slots. Trapezoid tools will be bolted from behind the same as Rhino Style tools.
Rained out slabs have an extremely soft cap, once you break through that soft top your concrete may be harder underneath.
You would most likely use a hard bond 16 grit shark tooth for the cap, and then grind appropriately based on the hardness of the concrete underneath.
You’ll have to counter weight the machine to alleviate head pressure.
Best speed to run at is 450, max 600.
Each tool has an average “life” listed in our brochure, or in our online store.
Excessively aggressive tool marks will likely need to be removed with the same diamonds that caused the tool marks, a mist of water may help.
Once a visual check has occurred and an even scratch pattern has been achieved over the entire floor you will be ready to thoroughly clean the floor and move onto the next grit.
Metal bond tools are suspended in metals like titanium, aluminum, and magnesium. Resin tools are suspended in ceramic, or other organic materials.
No, you can also run standard trapezoid tooling, or any Velcro backed tool.
- Are you using the right bond?
Test > MOHS Hardness pick set scratch test
Solution = match to corresponding metal bond from chart. - Rate of production – is it cutting?
Test > momentarily remove vacuum hose from machine and observe how much dust is being produced (a lot of dust means a lot of grinding, very little dust means very little grinding)
Solution = check for glazing and correct bond using other methods mentioned in this section along with choosing the correct tool or method. - Are you using the correct speed and grinding techniques?
- Diamond tool is wearing down too quickly
Test > measure the segment height with a caliper then grind 200 sq/ft or less and measure again. Any measurable wear indicates bond is too soft
Solution = move up in bond hardness. - Glazing – metal bond tool not cutting
Test > inspect segments, some may have discolored sections (purple/black) where over heating has occurred, and the surface of the segment has become tempered
Solution = dress each segment with a hand grinder and a 60 grit grind stone or wet grind at slow speed on a section of rough or course ground concrete for 15-30 minutes until discoloration is removed and tooling starts cutting again. - Glazing caused by excessive heat even when using the correct bond
* Note – on harder aggregates and concrete (i.e. above 4 MOHS) always cut at lower speeds. The harder the material the more heat is generated while cutting.
Test> Start at the slowest speed and gradually increase if necessary, until the machine “feels” and shows results of good cutting. “Find the sweet spot.” - Correct Bond still cutting slow
Test > usually means it is a highly polymerized floor and/or has been coated with cure and seal
Solution = Misting the floor or potentially wet cutting.
Yes, just ensure all segments are at the same height.
With an impact drill. Be careful not to over torque and strip thread
There is a 3-hole pattern between the Rhino Style slots. Trapezoid tools will be bolted from behind the same as Rhino Style tools.
Rained out slabs have an extremely soft cap, once you break through that soft top your concrete may be harder underneath.
You would most likely use a hard bond 16 grit shark tooth for the cap, and then grind appropriately based on the hardness of the concrete underneath.
You’ll have to counter weight the machine to alleviate head pressure.
Best speed to run at is 450, max 600.
Each tool has an average “life” listed in our brochure, or in our online store.
Excessively aggressive tool marks will likely need to be removed with the same diamonds that caused the tool marks, a mist of water may help.
Once a visual check has occurred and an even scratch pattern has been achieved over the entire floor you will be ready to thoroughly clean the floor and move onto the next grit.
Metal bond tools are suspended in metals like titanium, aluminum, and magnesium. Resin tools are suspended in ceramic, or other organic materials.
Vacuums
Make sure to empty, and clean out your vacuum, then check that there is nothing blocking the hose, cyclone, or filter.
Also make sure the filter is properly installed.
We have 2 models of the RV8. One only requires a 15A 110V power source, the other requires a 30A 220V single or 3Phase power source.
Yes, the minimum requirement would be a 2500KW continuous power for running the RV8.
General
30 Grit may not be aggressive enough.
You may have to use a 6 or 16 grit shark tooth on it with lots of water.
It is better not to use cure and seal, if you are going to polish the floor as it takes much longer to grind than an unsealed floor.
Once you cut through the cure and seal and are on to bare concrete you will see it move a lot faster. Production rates will vary with cure and seal because it takes more time to work through.
If the 6 or 16 grit aren’t aggressive enough you will need to use PCD’s to get through really thick cure and seal.
Also, your best bet is to cut through in one area to bare concrete then feather into the rest from the point so that your diamonds don’t glaze over.
Just before you densify your floor is the best time to apply a stain.
Keep in mind that the stain only binds to cement paste in the floor (if you have too much aggregate exposure your staining will be minimal).
For water based- spray it down and lap it out evenly with a micro fiber applicator. Do not go back over finished areas until fully cured.
Polished concrete is a great alternative to other types of flooring. It is incredibly durable, and more cost effective than installing hardwood, or other stone floors.
It is very easy to maintain, and when done properly gives a room a great look.
Polishing concrete involves mechanically closing the “pores” of the concrete surface in a way that creates a reflective finish.
Just give our team a call and we will get you setup with everything you’ll need to get up and running!
Polished concrete floors can be slippery depending on finish.
High gloss finishes are not recommended for wet areas (i.e. pool deck).
Slip resistance can be increased by applying guard product with an acceptable ASTM rating.
Maintenance costs are very low, and will vary depending on finish level, and area.
The lifespan of the shine you get from a polished concrete floor will depend on the amount, type of traffic and maintenance program.
It is up to you how long your floor will maintain its appearance.
As for the durability of the concrete, polishing doesn’t change the structural integrity, and will not affect the lifespan of the concrete.
If polished and maintained properly, the floor will last a lifetime.
The average polished concrete floor may only require grinding down 1/16’’ on the floor.
This may be caused due to staged pictures that have been viewed online, or samples in show rooms.
All concrete floors are unique and will vary in appearance based on a number of different factors (i.e. composition, placement, age, highs and lows, etc.).
Because of this, the features that are unique to your floor may be viewed negatively.
Concrete is very strong in compressive strength.
The tensile strength, however, is only 8-12% of the compressive strength. Tensile stresses work against the weak property of the concrete. This leads to cracking.
A control joint is a cut into the surface of the concrete slab to encourage cracking underneath the cut. This limits the number of random cracks you will get on the slab.
An expansion joint is a full separation between the slabs to allow for expansion and contraction.
An epoxy coating is a specialized product that is designed for application to a concrete slab. It is far more durable and intended to be used as a wearable surface.
While most concretes CAN be polished, not all can, and the appearance may vary greatly from one floor to the next. Any imperfections in the floor will still be visible after polishing.
Costs will vary depending on the location, size, condition, and desired finish of the floor
Yes, the most common finishes would be a matte (100-200 grit), satin 200-400 grit) and gloss (800-3000 grit) finish.
There is no single answer to this question.
Timelines will vary greatly depending on the size, condition, and desired finish of the floor, as well as the size of equipment used.
For specific equipment production rates, please refer to our brochure.
Yes.
Densifier enters the pores and reacts with the un-hydrated lime in the cement paste and forms silica gel which reduces pore size and hardens the concrete.
It stops dusting, increases surface hardness, reduces wear, and helps to resist staining.
Burnishing is not required, but usually improves the reflective appearance of the floor.
Please review our Tooling Guide.
Yes, it is, and there are lots of products available to accomplish this.
We recommend finding an approved location in your area to dispose of the dust.
Make sure you use bags that are thick enough to avoid getting damaged and leaking hazardous dust clouds.